Rolex Precision Chameleon
Long before changing your watch strap became something you do in a matter of seconds, Rolex sold a watch with its own wardrobe.
This Rolex Precision Chameleon dates to circa 1968 and is one of the more playful creations to come from the Crown. Measuring just 16 x 23 mm, its 18k white-gold case stretches into an elegant almond-like shape, finished with fine radiating lines that make the metal catch the light almost like a piece of jewellery.
The dial is tiny and wonderfully calm. A silver-white surface, applied baton markers, two simple hands and little more than the Rolex coronet and Precision signature. With so little space to work with, Rolex wisely did not try to fill it.
The real trick is underneath. The Chameleon was designed so a one-piece strap could be slid through the back of the case and swapped almost instantly. Rolex introduced the model in the early 1950s and marketed it around exactly that idea: one watch, an entire wardrobe of colours and materials. Pretty innovative for something created more than seventy years ago.
This later example makes the concept even more fun. Its textured white-gold case is paired with black leather, while the original Rolex presentation box comes with the watch and shows exactly how jewellery-like the whole Chameleon idea was intended to feel.
Inside is a hand-wound Rolex Precision movement, keeping the watch mechanically simple and appropriately slim. Here, however, the movement is almost beside the point. The Chameleon is really about design, transformation and a side of Rolex that has nothing to do with their infamous Submariners or GMTs.
Tiny, strange and genuinely innovative for the time. A 1960s Rolex that could change outfits faster than its owner. Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.
Year
1968€ 4.750
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Unlike Datejust or Sea-Dweller, Precision is technically not a model name. It is simply a description of the specifications of the caliber inside.
You may be familiar with COSC-certification. Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, is an independent non-profit institute that performs accuracy testing of Swiss made watch movements. Every individual movement, identified by its serial number, is tested and certified as a chronometer if it meets a set of standards. The most familiar is an average maximum daily deviation of +6/-4 seconds for mechanical movements. Today, about 3% of Swiss watches is chronometer rated. Rolex is, by numbers, the largest player in COSC-certified watches.
Most Rolex movements are chronometers. Many even underwent additional testing by Rolex themselves, to be labeled Superlative Chronometer. There are, however, Rolex movements that have not been externally certified for accuracy.
Famous are the Ref. 5513 Submariners. They did not feature individual movement numbers, indicating they were not chronometer certified. The Ref. 5512 was the chronometer variant, simultaneously available.
Another example are the Precision-labeled watches from Rolex. These were manually wound calibers, tested by Rolex themselves. A common variant is the Oyster Precision, which is a manually wound, time-only watch in the familiar Oyster case. Do not be fooled though, the Rolex quality is all there!
Several non-chronometer models are available under the Precision label. Besides the time-only Oyster Precision, a manual-wound non-chronometer Oysterdate Precision in 34mm case can also be found. This model is, in appearance, very similar to the more common Oyster Perpetual Date, but with a manual, non-chronometer caliber.
Today, all Rolex movements are automatic (perpetual) and COSC-rated. So to own a Precision caliber by the famed house is to own a piece of watchmaking history.
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