ELKA Ulysse Nardin Dress Watch

This is a particularly intriguing watch, especially because of the rare double signature on the dial. 

The combination of ELKA and Ulysse Nardin tells a distinct story about Amsterdam’s watchmaking history and luxury retail scene in the mid-20th century.

Here are the key insights about this particular piece:

ELKA stands for Eduard Louis Kiek Amsterdam. The Kiek family was a prominent name in the Amsterdam watchmaking world and opened their famous shop on Kalverstraat in 1913. ELKA’s history begins in the 19th century and is inextricably linked to the Kiek family:

The meaning: ELKA stands for Eduard Louis Kiek Amsterdam.

The family: The Kiek family was a well-known name in Dutch watchmaking and photography (think of the phrase “taking a snapshot”). Eduard Louis Kiek was a descendant of this enterprising family.

The shop: In 1913, the family opened a prestigious watch shop on Kalverstraat in Amsterdam. ELKA grew into a brand that not only sold watches but also produced chronometers, stopwatches, and specialized measuring instruments.

ELKA collaborated with major brands like Heuer and Ulysse Nardin. There are rare vintage models with both brand names on the dial (so-called “double signed” dials).

Retailer stamps: In the 1940s, it was common for prestigious brands like Ulysse Nardin to add the name of the jeweler (the retailer) to the dial. This was a sign of exclusivity and mutual trust.

Location: This watch was most likely originally sold in Amsterdam.

14k yellow gold was the standard for luxury dress watches in Europe in the 1940s (while 18k was more commonly used for the export market).

The 31mm diameter is small by modern standards, but was the classic size for a gentleman in the 1940s. It was considered elegant and understated. Ulysse Nardin was known at the time for its extremely precise chronometers. Inside this watch, you’ll likely find a high-quality, hand-wound movement.

Why this piece is rare:

Double branding: Collectors specifically seek out watches with “retailer dials.” The combination of ELKA and Ulysse Nardin is much rarer than, for example, the combination with Omega or Rolex.

Survival rate: Gold watches from the war years (1940s) were often melted down for gold during times of economic hardship. The fact that this example is still in its original condition adds considerable value.

Aesthetics: The 14k gold case combined with the typical 1940s dial layout (often with a small seconds hand at 6 o’clock) is the epitome of vintage chic.

Come admire this watch, originally from Amsterdam, in our vintage watch shop and experience what it’s like to own a watch that’s over 80 years old. Be enchanted by the multitude of watches and experience the vintage atmosphere in our store at Reestraat 3 in Amsterdam.