Lucien Piccard Tutti Frutti 14k

The baroque Master of time: The Lucien Piccard “Tutti Frutti” from 1968.

In watchmaking history, there are brands that build instruments, and there are brands that forge dreams. Lucien Piccard undeniably belonged to the latter category in 1968. While the world was captivated by the “Space Race” and sleek, industrial designs, Lucien Piccard remained true to a philosophy of excess, color, and pure luxury. This 14k gold “Tutti Frutti” watch is a rare time capsule from that golden age.

While Lucien Piccard is often associated with accessible fashion watches today, the reality in 1968 was quite different. Founded in 1923 in Lausanne, Switzerland, the brand was on par with the biggest names in the industry at the time. It was the “jeweler among watchmakers.”

The brand’s prestige was unparalleled. Frank Sinatra proudly wore his Lucien Piccard, a gift from Ava Gardner, and even NASA took the brand seriously enough to test it for the Apollo moon missions in 1964. Buying a Lucien Piccard in the 1960s was a symbol of artistic superiority.

In the jewelry world, the term “Tutti Frutti” is inextricably linked to the cheerful, colorful aesthetic in which various gemstones are set in a seemingly playful, yet technically perfect, pattern. 

This 1968 model embodies this philosophy:

The bezel: A kaleidoscope of natural splendor. The deep purple amethyst, the sunny citrine, the fiery garnet, and the luminous topaz combine to form a “fruit bowl” of gemstones.

The signature pearls: Characteristic of Lucien Piccard’s most exclusive vintage pieces are the two large pearls at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions. They interrupt the colorful bezel with a soft, organic sheen, giving the watch a regal appearance.

The case is crafted from solid 14-karat yellow gold. Lucien Piccard was a master of goldworking during this period. The texture isn’t simply polished, but often features hand-engraved details that catch the light and enhance the color of the surrounding gemstones.

Inside the case is a technical feat: an extremely small, hand-wound mechanical movement. In the 1960s, the ultimate challenge for a watchmaker was to create an accurate movement so small that it wouldn’t disrupt the graceful lines of a piece of jewelry.

What makes this piece so special is the contrast. The dial is deliberately minimalist: a clean background with subtle dot indices. This ensures that the focus is entirely on the exuberant bezel. Wearing the watch on a deep black, suede, or velvet strap accentuates the colors of the gemstones in a way reminiscent of a painting in a gold frame.

The Lucien Piccard “Tutti Frutti” from 1968 is a tribute to a time when a watch was meant to enchant. It is a piece of jewelry that tells the time, yet is itself timeless. For the collector, this is a chance to own a piece of “Old Hollywood Glamour,” an object that evokes a world of jazz, craftsmanship, and untamed elegance.