Longines Flagship 18k rose, ref.401
The Longines Flagship Ref. 401: The Compass of 1958.
It is 1958. The world is in flux, driven by optimism and a rediscovered passion for luxury and refinement. In this golden age of dress watches, Longines, the master of timeless precision, introduced the Flagship collection, a name that immediately evoked the flagship of a fleet, a symbol of leadership and undisputed class.
This is the story of the Reference 401, crafted in warm, glowing 18-karat rose gold.
The Flagship 401 is a silent witness to the gentleman of yesteryear. With a classic 34 mm diameter, the case nestles subtly under the cuff, and its choice of rose gold, rarer and softer than yellow gold, reveals a wearer with a keen eye for distinction.
Look at the dial. This watch is typically finished in an ivory hue, a perfect canvas for the refined, applied indices that mark the hours. The time is indicated by slim, razor-sharp Dauphine hands, which complete their circuit with military precision. At the traditional six o’clock position, a small seconds hand serves as a vivid reminder that the heart of this watch beats.
Beneath this delicate facade lies a hand-wound mechanical movement. Most likely the renowned Longines Caliber 30L, a mechanical gem that requires its owner to wind it every morning. This ritual forged an unbreakable bond between the man and his time; a daily commitment to precision and tradition.
The most iconic detail of the Flagship lies on the caseback. The snap-on caseback is not simply steel or gold, but bears a deeply engraved emblem of a sailing ship. This is the unmistakable “Flagship” logo. It symbolizes the pioneering spirit, the journey, and reaching the pinnacle of excellence. The Flagship Ref. 401 is therefore not just a timepiece, but a heirloom. A reminder of a time when craftsmanship, elegance, and a modest yet unwavering self-confidence were the benchmark. A beautiful, sparkling piece of history that still keeps time with unparalleled grace.
Year
1958€ 3.250
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It was back in 1832 in St. Imier that we find the roots of Longines. The house was founded by Auguste Agassiz and is currently under ownership of the Swatch Group. The brand would get its recognizable winged hour glass logo in 1889. It is the world’s oldest registered trademark.
Longines is currently very active in equestrian sports, but its heritage is predominantly in aviation. In 1927, the brand manufactured the 47mm Weems avigation (aviation navigation) watch in cooperation with Philip Van Horn Weems. Four years later, an hour angle watch for aerial navigation was developed in cooperation with Charles Lindbergh. A smaller Weems watch, measuring 33mm’s was introduced in 1937.
Note that this is long before the days of GPS or other automated navigation tools. Navigating your way through the sky was an extremely complex affair that required specialist tools like a Weems or Hour angle watch.
Throughout both world wars, Longines supplied military watches. They were one of the Dirty Dozen suppliers during late WWII. You will also find examples of the caged WWI trench watches in Longines’ archives.
Over the decades, Longines committed to many different genres of watches. From dress watches to chronographs and from pilot’s watches to divers. Today, its 1950’s, 60’s and 70’s dress watches are a a great entry point into vintage watch collecting. All the heritage and quality you could desire, but still relatively attainable. Once you get sucked into the brand though, there are all sorts of exotic and rare collectibles to be found.
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