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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Ref. 251.8.85 B+P

Some watches are iconic because they shout. The Reverso became iconic because it turns around.

This Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Ref. 251.8.85 dates to 1999 and keeps the original idea beautifully intact: a slim rectangular watch with a clever case that can slide out, flip over and protect the dial. What started as a practical solution for polo players has become one of the most iconic design gestures in watchmaking.

The black dial gives this example a slightly sharper character than the usual silver-dial Reverso. Arabic numerals, a small seconds display at six and clean hands keep the look wonderfully balanced, while the rectangular case and horizontal gadroons bring all the Art Deco charm you could hope for. It is formal, but most certainly not stiff. More jazz club than boardroom.

In steel, the case feels crisp and wearable, with a sapphire crystal keeping the dial clear and clean. Turn it over and the brushed caseback gives the watch that lovely Reverso secret: a surface that was originally meant for protection, but has long been used for engravings, initials or a sneaky private story. Even without engraving, just the fact that you are able to, is part of the fun.

Inside is a hand-wound movement, exactly the sort of thing you want in a Reverso like this. Winding it by hand suits the watch perfectly, adding a small daily ritual to a design that already feels wonderfully personal. This example is worn on grey ostrich leather strap and finished with its original steel Jaeger-LeCoultre buckle. Additionally, it is accompanied by its original box and papers.

The Reverso was born in 1931, but this 1999 example shows why the design never really needed reinventing. Slim, graphic, clever and full of character, it remains one of the few watches that can feel both sporty in origin and completely dressed up in practice.

A steel Reverso with a black dial, hand-wound movement and all the quiet Art Deco attitude you could want. Elegant, clever and just a little bit playful. Come see it for yourself at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.

Year

1999
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€ 6.480

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Brand Jaeger-LeCoultre
Diameter 24 mm
Model Reverso
Bracelet/strap: Leather
Reference 251.8.85
Buckle/clasp Original plated buckle
Year of production (circa) 1999
Lug Width 17 mm
Material Steel
Set Content Original box & papers
Crystal Sapphire
Warranty 2 year (AWCo)
Dial color Black
Movement Hand-wound

To understand the odd design of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, we have to travel to India, 1930. Watch collector and business man Oscar de Trey was watching British army officers play a game of polo. One of them broke his watch’s crystal during the match and challenged Oscar to come up with a design that would survive the rough sport.

De Trey dreamed up a watch that would be reversible and met up with Jacques-David LeCoultre to get it done. He would supply the movements for these watches. Edmond Jaeger (who would later merge with LeCoultre in 1937) was contracted to build the cases. A designer by the name of René-Alfred Chauvot was hired to develop the basic idea into a working design. His unique reversible watch case was patented in 1931. The case could slide out of its cradle and be turned over, exposing a metal backplate, rather than the delicate crystal and dial. The Reverso was born.

If you have a look at this 1931 art deco design, you will instantly recognize the modern Reverso. The case shape has hardly changed and the original was already rather substantial; the same size as the modern Reverso classique. Of course many variations were introduced, among which a 1935 update with a square sub-dial for the seconds.

The backplate of the Reverso was often used for personal engravings or enamel decorations. It took until 1994 before JLC would house two dials and sets of hands within a single Reverso, creating the duo-face. A technical challenge, since both faces are powered by the same movement in between. Most would feature a light and a dark dial, to match different outfits, moods or times of the day (Reverso Day & Night).

Several versions with different complications were produced from 1991 onwards. Multiple sizes, materials and movement types are also available. Most are fitted with manually wound or quartz calibers, although automatic versions do exist.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is arguably the world’s first specially designed sports watch. By today’s standards its looks are classically formal, but its roots are clearly in equestrian sports. Much like the Cartier Tank, its rectangular design has survived the test of time with flying colors. If it is a true design classic you are after, no need to look any further.

At AWCo we put the safety of our shipments upfront at all times. Therefore, we ship all our packages insured.

We strive to promptly handle packages to minimize delays. Delivery times begin from the day of dispatch. While we make every effort to ensure smooth delivery, we cannot be held responsible for delays caused by destination customs, local duties, taxes, or lost items during transit.

Certainly, we understand that overloaded mail-order companies can also contribute to potential delays in the delivery process. Despite our best efforts, external factors beyond our control may affect shipping times. Rest assured, we remain committed to providing timely service and will work diligently to ensure your order reaches you as promptly as possible. For any inquiries or updates, feel free to reach out to us at info@awco.nl. Your satisfaction is our priority.