Zenith El Primero Ref.A384 SP1301

Here we present another stunner with some real historical significance; in 1969, the race was on to create the automatic chronograph. Zenith came prepared.

This El Primero A384 dates to circa 1970 and belongs to the very first generation of Zenith’s groundbreaking automatic chronographs. Its angular 37 mm steel case is pure late-sixties design, with sharp facets, a brushed finish and a lovely tonneau silhouette. A rather bold departure from the traditional round chronographs of the time.

The dial is what we like to see. Originally conceived as a contrasting panda layout, the three subdials and outer tachymeter scale have developed warm brown tones, giving the watch its wonderful tropical appearance. Against the pale background, the red chronograph seconds hand add that perfect pop of colour to an already characterful dial.

Underneath sits the legendary El Primero calibre 3019 PHC, an integrated automatic chronograph movement operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. Introduced in 1969, it combined a column-wheel chronograph with automatic winding and a frequency of 5 Hz, allowing the chronograph to measure intervals to a tenth of a second. Serious engineering, especially for its time.

The steel bracelet deserves attention too. The A384 was originally offered with the distinctive ladder bracelet designed by Gay Frères for Zenith in 1969. Its unusual open-link construction was a perfect match for the angular case, making the bracelet an important part of the original design rather than simply an accessory.

And the El Primero story almost ended before it truly began. During the Quartz Crisis, Zenith decided to discontinue production of the movement. Watchmaker Charles Vermot secretly preserved the technical drawings, tools and equipment needed to manufacture it, helping make its eventual return possible. Without him, the history of the mechanical chronograph might have looked rather different.

An early El Primero with calibre 3019 PHC, a beautifully aged panda dial and the unmistakable design language of the late sixties. A significant piece of chronograph history, and a particularly good looking one. Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.