Cartier Santos pm automatic
Cartier Santos PM: A revolution in steel and screws.
At a time when the Eiffel Tower was still a symbol of modern daring and the first airplanes explored the skies above Paris, Louis Cartier created something revolutionary in 1904. For his friend, the Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont, he designed the world’s first true pilot’s watch. This 1990 example (ref. 2423) is the direct heir to that legendary design.
What makes the Santos instantly recognizable are the visible screws. At the time, this was a shocking choice; watchmakers always tried to conceal screws. But Louis Cartier saw the beauty in functionality.
The screws on the case and bracelet are a direct nod to the industrial aesthetic of Paris. They are reminiscent of the rivets of the Eiffel Tower and the metal fuselages of Santos-Dumont’s early aircraft. By placing these screws prominently in the design, Cartier transformed a technically essential component into a world-renowned style icon. While many small models (Petit Modèle) from that era were equipped with quartz, this particular 1990 example is a rarity because of its heart: the Caliber C077. This is an automatic movement, meaning the watch comes to life through the natural movement of your wrist. It offers the charm of traditional watchmaking in a compact and refined format.
The features of an icon:
Silver-colored Quilled Dial: The silver-colored dial has a subtle texture that plays beautifully with light.
Classic Codes: The deep black Roman numerals and the blued sword-shaped hands are the unmistakable signature of Cartier.
Unparalleled Comfort: Thanks to its relatively thin case and the iconic curved lugs, this watch fits like a second skin.
This 1990 watch is more than just a timepiece. It is a piece of jewelry that exudes the spirit of innovation from early 20th-century Paris. The Santos’s steel design proves that true elegance doesn’t depend on precious metals, but on a perfect balance between architecture, history, and technology.
With the Cartier Santos PM on your wrist, you’re not just wearing a watch; you’re wearing the story of the man who learned to fly and the man who helped him capture time.
Year
1990€ 4.950
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Amsterdam Pocket Watch Company. Or Amsterdam Women’s-only Watch Company. Two alternate realities that could have been, if it weren’t for Louis Cartier. Many of our brands can lay claim on important horological innovations, but Cartier is the one that started the wristwatch game for men with the Santos.
The Brazilian dandy Alberto Santos Dumont inquired with his friend Louis Cartier about a better solution for telling time while flying. His pocket watch was rather cumbersome in flight. Louis Cartier designed a flat, square watch for him in 1904: the Cartier Santos.
While, for a long time, watches were used for navigation, this was not yet the case for dear old Santos. His flight, the first to ever be caught on film, lasted for only 21 seconds. Not a lot of navigation required there! He was wearing the world’s first men’s wristwatch though.
The Santos went into large-scale production in 1911, fitted with a Jaeger caliber inside. The cases came in platinum or gold and the Santos came on the very first ever folding clasp, fitted to brown or black leather straps.
The 1970’s Quartz crisis and Audemars Piguet’s brilliant answer in the Royal Oak, triggered Cartier to morph the Santos into a modern sports watch. A steel version on an integrated steel bracelet was introduced in 1978, the Santos de Cartier. A more rounded, quartz powered Santos Galbée was launched in 1987. Multiple variations on the theme were launched since. If it is the classical look you are after, the Santos Dumont remains most faithful to the very first Santos from 1904.
While the Santos debuted as the tool-watch for men. It has aged into a classical, more dressy watch for men and women alike. As we are slowly but surely moving away from gender-specific watches, the Santos is a prime example of a watch for everyone. A design classic with a story that will surely captivate your audience, next time you have drinks with friends.
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