Omega Seamaster chronometer Ref.168.024

A Seamaster that looks like a dress watch, but has rather more going on underneath.

Dating to circa 1968, this Omega Seamaster Ref. 168.024 comes in a compact 35 mm steel case with a clean silver dial and the wonderfully formal “Chronometer Officially Certified” text sitting beneath the Omega signature. It is holding back at first glance, but that short line tells you this was never the basic version.

Slim baton markers, a framed date at three and the flowing Seamaster script keep the dial beautifully balanced. The acrylic crystal adds the softer profile you want from a late-sixties Omega, while the black leather strap makes the steel case feel a little sharper and more dressed up.

Inside sits Omega’s automatic calibre 564, the chronometer-grade date movement associated with Ref. 168.024. It also brings a quickset date, making this one of those interesting vintage examples that is rather easier to live with than its age might suggest. 

The Seamaster had already been around for twenty years when this watch was made. Omega introduced the collection in 1948 around the idea of a robust everyday watch, long before the Seamaster became inseparable from rotating bezels and dive equipment. That makes pieces like this an important part of the story: no dive bezel, no Bond association yet, just a refined chronometer with the Seamaster name on the dial. 

A calm but handsome late-sixties Seamaster, chronometer certification and a clean silver dial. More serious than it looks, and all the better for it. Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.

Year

1968

SOLD

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Brand Omega
Diameter 35 mm
Model Seamaster
Bracelet/strap: Leather
Reference 168.024
Buckle/clasp Aftermarket steel
Year of production (circa) 1968
Lug Width 18 mm
Material Steel
Set Content Watch only
Crystal Acrylic
Warranty 2 year (AWCo)
Dial color Silver
Movement Automatic

The Omega Seamaster was introduced in 1948 and is, as such, the longest continuously running line within Omega’s catalogue. While these early Seamasters might look like dress-watches by today’s standards, their unique selling point was the use of an O-ring gasket between the case and the screw-in caseback. This development, taken from Submarine innovation during WWII, provided the watches with waterproofing that is anything but dressy. A major upgrade over older lead and shellac alternatives.

In 1955, a Seamaster was taken to a record depth of 62,5 meters by diver Gordon McLean, off the coast of Australia. Note that this is still before it took on the archetypal form-factor of a dive watch in 1957, with Ref. CK2913. Since then, models with and without divetime bezels have co-existed within the Omega Seamaster collection.

1950’s And 1960’s non-divetime-bezel Seamasters offer amazing value within today’s vintage market. Despite their modest diameter, they tend to have great wrist presence due to sporty, beefy cases. Countless variations exist, from rare curtain-dial double-signed Seamasters to fancy lugs and cross-hair dials. Great finishing and quality movements ensure these are still awesome everyday watches today. Since they were produced in relatively large numbers, a good example does not break the bank like some technically and historically lesser watches do.

The vintage diving Seamasters, such as the Ref. CK2913, Milspec Seamaster 300 or the famous PloProf, have become highly sought-after and collectible.

It is impossible to write about the Omega Seamaster without mentioning James Bond. When Pierce Brosnan took on the role of British super spy in 1995’s Goldeneye, a tricked-out quartz Seamaster diver was on his wrist. Different Seamasters have featured in all Bond-franchise films since. There was even a sly dig at Omega’s biggest rivals in Casino Royale when a James Bond/Vesper Lynd conversation went: “Rolex?” “Omega.” “Beautiful!”  Oh snap!

The Omega Seamaster collection has everything you could want from a watch. The history, the significance, the quality and the sheer variety. From simpler versions that present massive value, to highly collectible and extremely rare examples. A cool, understated look with an adventurous undertone. We love them!

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