Longines record 18 k white gold 10 emerald and 12 brilliant

The Longines Record “High Jewelry”.

In the world of horology, there are instruments that measure time, and then there are works of art that make time stand still. This Longines Record from circa 1980 undeniably belongs to the latter category. It is a rare relic from an era where the boundary between a timepiece and high-end jewelry completely dissolved.

The “Record” name carries a rich history. Originally an independent Swiss manufacturer, the Record Watch Co. was acquired by Longines in 1961. This unique collaboration combined the technical reliability of Record with the flamboyant, elegant style for which Longines is renowned. This specific model, crafted in 18-karat white gold, is the ultimate expression of that fusion.

The heart of the design is the bezel, set with extreme precision with a regal combination of gemstones:

• 10 Deep green emeralds: Divided into two groups of five, they bring a vibrant, organic color that historically symbolizes prosperity and harmony. Each emerald is unique, featuring its own natural “jardin” (inclusions).
• 12 sparkling brilliants: Six diamonds flank the emeralds on either side. Their perfect 57 facets catch every ray of light, creating a brilliance that contrasts beautifully with the cool luster of the white gold.

Setting and symbolism;

The symmetry of the stones, set in a deliberate, alternating pattern,required the hands of a master setter (sertisseur). Every stone had to be manually calibrated to ensure they sit at a perfectly uniform height. This avant-garde setting reflects the spirit of the 1970s, a time when “nature-inspired” luxury was at its peak. The organic green of the emeralds paired with gold perfectly complemented the fashion of the era, which favored rich, earthy tones combined with flamboyant luxury. This elevates the minimalist white dial and its slender black indices to an unprecedented level of opulence.

Hand-Carved gold: The Bark Finish;

Perhaps the most impressive detail is the integrated bracelet, featuring a hand-carved “Bark Finish”. This artisanal technique creates a diffused, satiny play of light reminiscent of natural textures. Because the bracelet flows directly into the case without visible lugs, the watch feels like supple, golden fabric against the wrist, a technical feat that is rarely achieved today due to the immense labor involved. No two bracelets are exactly alike; the irregular lines ensure the metal scatters light softly rather than reflecting it like a mirror, providing a rich, organic appearance.

Beneath this outward display of splendor lies a solid mechanical foundation: the Caliber 670. This hand-wound movement is a tribute to traditional watchmaking, allowing the wearer to connect with the mechanics daily through the ritual of winding.

This watch is a textbook example of the glamour of the late 1970s and early 1980s. It does not shout for attention but commands admiration through the quality of its materials and visible craftsmanship. As the experts at Amsterdam Watch Company would confirm: this is not merely a timekeeper, but a jewel for eternity.