Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 51686/010 B+P

When the Patek Philippe Nautilus was launched in 1976, it became a massive hit for the brand. Some twenty years later, the Nautilus was well-established and Patek needed something fresh for a younger audience. They took a lot of Nautilus DNA, shrunk it to 35,6mm, ditched the integrated steel bracelet for a rubber strap and the new kid on the block was born: the Patek Philippe Aquanaut.

This first Aquanaut was the Ref. 5060A, featuring an instantly recognizable dial with Arabic numerals and a rather particular pattern. It would earn the nickname grenade dial, for its blocked structure that would be echoed on the rubber strap.

Speaking of the strap, rubber might not be the obvious choice for a high-brow manufacture like Patek. This is not just any rubber strap though. It is made up of over twenty different materials and completely impervious to UV radiation and salt water.

A 34mm quartz version Ref. 5064 A-001 would be launched a year after the Ref. 5060A. An even smaller version in 29,5mm’s would be added as Ref. 4960 A-010.

Then, in 1998, Patek launched the Ref. 5065-A. A beefier 38mm version with an automatic caliber on display through the sapphire case back. The original Ref. 5060 would also be upgraded to a display case back in Ref. 5066.

Later versions would see the dial pattern reduced to subtle lines rather than blocks with deep ridges in between. A new rubber strap would be integrated with the case a little more. As with the previous Aquanauts, steel and gold variants would be introduced as well as several complications.

The Aquanaut was not the instant hit that the Nautilus was. They have picked up pace though. Today, the Patek Aquanaut is another hard-to-get, highly sought-after sports watch from one of the most prestigious houses. A watch with a unique and very cool aesthetic.