Omega Constellation Ref. 108.017
In the AWCo collection, we find a watch that perfectly synthesizes astronomical precision and revolutionary design: the Omega Constellation Ref. 168.017 from 1970. At the time, this watch was Omega’s undisputed flagship, a wrist adornment that set the gold standard for all Swiss watchmaking.
What makes this specific reference instantly recognizable is its characteristic “C-shape” case. This iconic design, with its flowing tonneau-shaped lines, was the brainchild of none other than the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta. In the early 1970s, this design was a modern revolution, and today it is considered one of the most timeless shapes in Omega’s history. With its 35 mm diameter and robust stainless steel finish, this watch exudes a sporty elegance that feels both classic and contemporary.
The name “Constellation” was not chosen at random by Omega; It’s a direct claim to “celestial” accuracy. When you turn the watch over, you’ll see the famous Observatory emblem on the caseback. Above the observatory are eight stars. These aren’t just decorative; they’re a proud tribute to the eight precision records Omega set between 1933 and 1952 at the world’s most prestigious chronometer competitions.
In 1970, owning a Constellation was a statement. It was the first Omega series to consist exclusively of certified chronometers, meaning that each timepiece had been rigorously tested for its accuracy. The automatic movement inside this Ref. 168.017 is a feat of technical mastery that still keeps time with the utmost reliability.
Combined with a refined leather strap, this Constellation is a watch that tells stories about the race for precision and the rise of modern design. It is the “star” of the Omega collection, now on display in the Reestraat. A watch for the connoisseur who appreciates the history of the observatory and Genta’s hand.
Year
1970€ 2.280
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When Omega celebrated its centennial in 1948, it launched its first chronometer-rated wrist watch, the Centenary, to commemorate the event. The watch was an instant hit and in 1952, Omega decided it was time to expand its chronometer efforts. The Constellation was born as its top line of officially chronometer-rated watches.
The Constellation would be easily recognizable through a star on the dial and a caseback featuring an image of the Geneva observatory and eight stars. A nod to the accuracy records Omega set at the Kew-Teddington observatory in the 1930’s.
The first models featured bumper-automatics. A variation on the common free-spinning rotor, where the rotation is limited to 120 degrees, before the rotor hits a spring. This can be felt when handling the watch as a little bump. After four years, these calibers were replaced by free-spinning automatics.
The earlier models from the 1950’s and 1960’s featured the iconic pie-pan dial. The dial would slope down at an angle around its outer perimeter, providing a very cool sense of dimensionality. Since the look is reminiscent of the underside of a pie-pan, a nickname was quickly born. Halfway through the sixties, flat-dial versions slowly took over. The pie-pan remains a highly sought-after Constellation variant today.
In the 1970’s, all sorts of creative case shapes and integrated bracelets were launched. Different sizes were introduced for men and women. Countless dial variations were sold. Steel, gold and gold-cap versions can be found.
The Constellation is clearly Omega’s high end range. More effort was put into finishing techniques and accuracy. Where the Seamaster and Speedmaster lines were more about utility, the Constellation was (and still is) a tour-de-force in watchmaking precision.
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