Cartier Panthere Cougar GM 187904
What a stunning and elegant timepiece! The Cartier Panthère Cougar GM (often referred to simply as the Cougar or Panthère Cougar) with reference 187904 is a classic example of Cartier’s distinctive luxury style from the 1980’s and 1990’s.
Here is a detailed overview of this specific watch, combining its key specifications and historical significance:
This model features a bicolor (gold/steel) case material, combining the warmth of 18K yellow gold with robust stainless steel. Its diameter is 33 mm, which was considered a large model at the time, making it suitable for men or as a unisex piece. The crystal is protected by sapphire glass, ensuring scratch resistance. A classic Cartier touch is the crown, which is set with the signature blue sapphire cabochon.
Part of the panthère family: Although this watch features a round case, it belongs to Cartier’s wider Panthère collection. The name Cougar was specifically used for the round variations to distinguish them from the more famous square Panthère models.
1980’s/90’s style: This piece perfectly embodies the ‘bicolor’ luxury trend of the 80s and 90s. The combination of stainless steel and 18-karat yellow gold makes it both sporty and supremely elegant, and it was a status symbol of casual chic during that era.
Quartz movement: The use of a reliable Quartz movement was highly common, and even desirable, in the luxury sector during this period (a response to the ‘Quartz Crisis’). It ensures excellent reliability and allows for a very slim case profile.
Unisex appeal: While the 33 mm size was then viewed as a larger ladies’ watch or a men’s model, its elegant and slim profile makes it a highly sought-after unisex vintage timepiece today.
In short, the Cartier Panthère Cougar 187904 is a timeless, elegant, and historically significant watch that perfectly represents Cartier’s characteristic luxury and design philosophy.
Year
1992€ 4.450
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Cartier was founded by Louis-Francois Cartier in Paris in 1847. As number 59 on the Forbes most valuable brands list, it is safe to say that Cartier is a household name in the world of jewelry and watches.
Don’t be fooled by the glitter and glamour of the brand though. There is serious watchmaking heritage present here. Think, for instance, of the introduction of the men’s wristwatch. Up until the early 20th century, wristwatches were for women only. But then in 1904, the Brazilian dandy pilot Santos Dumont asked Louis Cartier for a more convenient solution to replace his cumbersome pocket watch. Cartier designed the Santos, the world’s first ever wristwatch for men. Who knows, we may have been Amsterdam Pocket Watch Company today, without Cartier’s massive influence on fashion!
Cartier is primarily known for its classic designs. Another famous example is the Tank. Inspired by a Renault tank from the WWI era, the rectangular case resembles the footprint of those early threaded vehicles. Like the Santos, its design has hardly changed in over a century.
The recipe is clear: white dials, heat-blued hands, stark black Roman numerals and a sapphire cabochon in the crown. We try not to be too liberal with the term iconic, but it surely applies here! Countless variations in case shapes, sizes, movement types and materials have been made. From the Ronde to the Pasha and from the Baignoire to the Ceinture. A fun detail is the signature below six o’ clock. “Swiss” indicates that these are Swiss made watches. But some come with a “Paris” designation, signaling those examples were sold in Cartier’s flagship store in Paris, Place Vendôme. A particularly desirable and collectible feature.
Cartier remained a family business until 1964. Today, it is part of the Richemont group, like IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Panerai, among many others. The classical designs remain a favorite among collectors and fashionistas alike.
If it is a timeless watch you are after, Cartier could just be perfect for you. Most of its designs are based on themes over a century old. And they have looked fresh and relevant ever since. We are confident they will remain so for a long, long time to come!
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