Cartier Ellipse PM Ref. 67081

Cartier in the seventies was clearly not interested in drawing another simple circle.

This Ellipse PM Ref. 67081 comes from the Louis Cartier Collection introduced in 1973, a period in which the maison was having great fun with shape. Its 18k yellow gold case sits somewhere between an oval, a cushion and a tiny piece of architecture. At 26 mm it is petite, but the stepped gold case gives it more presence than the numbers suggest.

Inside that playful shape, the dial is pure Cartier discipline. All the typical Cartier features are there. At six sits the small Paris signature, linking the watch to Cartier’s Paris retail tradition and adding exactly the sort of tiny detail vintage Cartier collectors enjoy.

The side profile might be the best part. Two rounded sweeps of yellow gold wrap around the dial, finished by the sapphire cabochon crown and a dark blue leather strap. It feels more like jewellery than a conventional dress watch, without needing diamonds or anything loud to get there.

The Ref. 67081 was the smaller counterpart to the Ref. 78091 in Cartier’s 1973 collection. That context suits it perfectly: this was Cartier moving beyond the Tank and Santos and exploring less predictable forms, while keeping all the familiar dial details present.

A tiny seventies Cartier in solid gold, with a Paris dial and a shape that becomes stranger, and better, the longer you look at it. Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.

Year

1970s

€ 5.900

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Brand Cartier
Diameter 26 mm
Model Ellipse
Bracelet/strap: Leather
Reference 67081
Buckle/clasp 18k gold
Year of production (circa) 1970s
Lug Width 12 mm
Material 18k gold
Set Content Watch only
Crystal Sapphire
Warranty 2 year (AWCo)
Dial color White
Movement Hand-wound

Cartier was founded by Louis-Francois Cartier in Paris in 1847. As number 59 on the Forbes most valuable brands list, it is safe to say that Cartier is a household name in the world of jewelry and watches.

Don’t be fooled by the glitter and glamour of the brand though. There is serious watchmaking heritage present here. Think, for instance, of the introduction of the men’s wristwatch. Up until the early 20th century, wristwatches were for women only. But then in 1904, the Brazilian dandy pilot Santos Dumont asked Louis Cartier for a more convenient solution to replace his cumbersome pocket watch. Cartier designed the Santos, the world’s first ever wristwatch for men. Who knows, we may have been Amsterdam Pocket Watch Company today, without Cartier’s massive influence on fashion!

Cartier is primarily known for its classic designs. Another famous example is the Tank. Inspired by a Renault tank from the WWI era, the rectangular case resembles the footprint of those early threaded vehicles. Like the Santos, its design has hardly changed in over a century.

The recipe is clear: white dials, heat-blued hands, stark black Roman numerals and a sapphire cabochon in the crown. We try not to be too liberal with the term iconic, but it surely applies here! Countless variations in case shapes, sizes, movement types and materials have been made. From the Ronde to the Pasha and from the Baignoire to the Ceinture. A fun detail is the signature below six o’ clock. “Swiss” indicates that these are Swiss made watches. But some come with a “Paris” designation, signaling those examples were sold in Cartier’s flagship store in Paris, Place Vendôme. A particularly desirable and collectible feature.

Cartier remained a family business until 1964. Today, it is part of the Richemont group, like IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Panerai, among many others. The classical designs remain a favorite among collectors and fashionistas alike.

If it is a timeless watch you are after, Cartier could just be perfect for you. Most of its designs are based on themes over a century old. And they have looked fresh and relevant ever since. We are confident they will remain so for a long, long time to come!

At AWCo we put the safety of our shipments upfront at all times. Therefore, we ship all our packages insured.

We strive to promptly handle packages to minimize delays. Delivery times begin from the day of dispatch. While we make every effort to ensure smooth delivery, we cannot be held responsible for delays caused by destination customs, local duties, taxes, or lost items during transit.

Certainly, we understand that overloaded mail-order companies can also contribute to potential delays in the delivery process. Despite our best efforts, external factors beyond our control may affect shipping times. Rest assured, we remain committed to providing timely service and will work diligently to ensure your order reaches you as promptly as possible. For any inquiries or updates, feel free to reach out to us at info@awco.nl. Your satisfaction is our priority.