Zenith El Primero A385

The second El Primero in our collection at the moment; the wonderful Ref. A385.

Dating to circa 1970, this Zenith El Primero A385 brings together one of the most important chronograph movements ever developed and a wonderfully angular 37 mm stainless-steel case. Strong brushed surfaces, sharply defined edges and prominent pushers give the watch a timeless looking industrial character.

The dial is equally interesting. Introduced in 1969, the A385’s distinctive smoky brown gradient was an unusually adventurous design for its time. The colour gradually darkens towards the edge, surrounding three contrasting light chronograph registers. A tachymeter scale frames the dial, while the bright red chronograph hand adds just the right pop of colour. Completing the look is a Gay Frères steel ladder bracelet, originally designed for Zenith in 1969. Its distinctive open-link construction makes for a remarkably light and comfortable bracelet, and a perfect match to the angular case.

Inside sits Zenith’s automatic calibre 3019 PHC, the original high-frequency El Primero movement introduced in 1969. Beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, its integrated column-wheel chronograph was designed to measure elapsed time to one-tenth of a second. At a time when watchmakers were racing to develop the automatic chronograph, Zenith had created something genuinely groundbreaking.

The El Primero story nearly ended just a few years later. During the quartz crisis, Zenith decided to discontinue the movement, but watchmaker Charles Vermot secretly preserved the technical drawings and production tools in the manufacture’s attic. His decision would eventually make the movement’s revival possible.

A remarkable piece of early-seventies watchmaking, combining serious mechanical innovation with bold design and a dial full of character. Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.