Cartier Tank Louis pm
The Cartier Tank Louis PM: The Parisian Promise of 1980.
In the world of high watchmaking, there’s a subtle yet crucial difference between a piece of jewelry and an icon. The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier PM (Petite Modèle) from 1980 is undeniably the latter. It’s a watch that has graced the wrists of kings, artists, and style icons for over a century, but this particular piece tells its own, exquisitely refined story.
The Tank’s legendary design dates back to 1917, when Louis Cartier drew inspiration from the aerial views of armored vehicles from the First World War. This 1980 model embodies that vision in its purest form: a rectangular 18-karat yellow gold case with the characteristic “brancards”—the sleek, vertical sidebars that flow seamlessly into the lugs. With its elegant dimensions of 21 x 20 mm, this watch is the embodiment of understated femininity. For the connoisseur, the true value of this watch lies beneath the 6 o’clock position. There, adorned with the single signature: “Paris.” While most watches proclaim themselves “Swiss Made,” this example directly harks back to the house’s birthplace on Rue de la Paix. This signature was used exclusively for the most prestigious models in the exclusive Louis Cartier collection. It gives this watch that unmistakably French je ne sais quoi—a status considered by collectors worldwide to be the most historically valuable designation.
The dial is a technical and aesthetic masterpiece. Against the milky white background, the jet-black Roman numerals and the chemin de fer (railway) minute ring stand out with razor-sharp clarity. The hands, crafted from blued steel, are a work of art in themselves; heated to a precise temperature, they change color, shifting from mysterious black to vibrant blue with every movement of the wrist. This blue glow is echoed in the crown, where a pointed sapphire cabochon glows deep blue against the warm yellow gold. The whole is completed by the original gold buckle, which seals the luxurious experience of this heirloom.
This Tank Louis from 1980 is more than just a timepiece; it’s a survivor of an era of absolute elegance. It’s a watch for the woman who knows that true class doesn’t shout, but whispers. A rare piece of Parisian history that, like the collections at Amsterdam Watch Company, recalls a time when craftsmanship was still the highest form of art.
Year
1980€ 7.250
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The Cartier Tank was designed by Louis Cartier in 1917. Its design was inspired by the brand new, awe-inspiring Renault FT-17 tank, used in WWI. We may consider the Tank to be a classical shape today, but back in 1917, it was a design revolution, much like the Renault that inspired it. The very first public example was given to General John Pershing in 1918.
The iconic design looks simple and elegant, but is deceptively complex at the same time. The nearly square case is flanked by two brancards, giving the watch its slender, rectangular appearance. A form that is clearly taken from the Renault tank with its tracks. A white dial, black Roman numerals, heat-blued hands, rail-road track and sapphire cabochon crown complete the typical Tank design.
Countless variations on the theme exist though. 1921 Saw the introduction of the elongated Cintrée models. In the 1970’s, in response to the Quartz crisis, Cartier launched the Must de Cartier line. These Tanks were powered by more affordable quartz or mechanical ETA calibers and the cases were plated silver, rather than 18k gold. The Tank Americaine was launched in the late 1980’s. The elongated and curved shape was reminiscent of the Cintrée, but a little less delicate in form. The more angular, modern Tank Francaise was added to the collection in 1995. More niche variants such as the Tank Chinoise and the odd “digital” Tank a Guichet are available for those with a taste for something different.
The Cartier Tank has always been a celebrity favorite. Iconic figures such as Andy Warhol, Muhammad Ali and Jackie Kennedy wore Tanks. Jackie Kennedy’s specific watch was later acquired by Kim Kardashian for a whopping $395.000,- at auction. Today, you might spot a Tank Francaise on the Dutch Queen Maxima’s wrist.
The Cartier Tank is surely one of the most iconic watch designs out there. You can easily put it side-by-side with the Rolex Submariner and AP Royal Oak as one of those genre-defining designs. It is tempting to throw the term iconic around in the watch world, but it is justified here beyond a shadow of a doubt.
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