Cartier Tank Anglaise PM Ref.3485 SP+SB
The crown is usually one of the easiest parts of a Cartier to spot. Here, Cartier decided to hide it.
Introduced in 2012, the Tank Anglaise was a new take on a the famous design. This Ref. 3485 comes from that first period and combines stainless steel with warm rose-gold details, including the centre links running through its integrated bracelet.
The dial stays typical Cartier: silver-white, black Roman numerals, a chemin-de-fer minute track and blued sword hands. No date, no seconds hand, very little distraction. Instead, most of the personality comes from the case itself.
The Anglaise’s party trick is on the right side. Cartier built the crown directly into the brancard, protecting the blue sapphire and keeping the case profile uninterrupted. Together with the broader, softly rounded case, it makes the Anglaise feel chunkier and more architectural than a Tank Louis, while remaining unmistakably part of the family.
Inside is a quartz movement, entirely appropriate for this compact PM version. Slim, practical and happy to let the design do the interesting work.
Complete with Cartier service box and service papers, this is a modern Tank with a slightly unusual twist: steel, rose gold and a crown hidden in plain sight. Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.
Year
2012€ 4.450
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The Cartier Tank was designed by Louis Cartier in 1917. Its design was inspired by the brand new, awe-inspiring Renault FT-17 tank, used in WWI. We may consider the Tank to be a classical shape today, but back in 1917, it was a design revolution, much like the Renault that inspired it. The very first public example was given to General John Pershing in 1918.
The iconic design looks simple and elegant, but is deceptively complex at the same time. The nearly square case is flanked by two brancards, giving the watch its slender, rectangular appearance. A form that is clearly taken from the Renault tank with its tracks. A white dial, black Roman numerals, heat-blued hands, rail-road track and sapphire cabochon crown complete the typical Tank design.
Countless variations on the theme exist though. 1921 Saw the introduction of the elongated Cintrée models. In the 1970’s, in response to the Quartz crisis, Cartier launched the Must de Cartier line. These Tanks were powered by more affordable quartz or mechanical ETA calibers and the cases were plated silver, rather than 18k gold. The Tank Americaine was launched in the late 1980’s. The elongated and curved shape was reminiscent of the Cintrée, but a little less delicate in form. The more angular, modern Tank Francaise was added to the collection in 1995. More niche variants such as the Tank Chinoise and the odd “digital” Tank a Guichet are available for those with a taste for something different.
The Cartier Tank has always been a celebrity favorite. Iconic figures such as Andy Warhol, Muhammad Ali and Jackie Kennedy wore Tanks. Jackie Kennedy’s specific watch was later acquired by Kim Kardashian for a whopping $395.000,- at auction. Today, you might spot a Tank Francaise on the Dutch Queen Maxima’s wrist.
The Cartier Tank is surely one of the most iconic watch designs out there. You can easily put it side-by-side with the Rolex Submariner and AP Royal Oak as one of those genre-defining designs. It is tempting to throw the term iconic around in the watch world, but it is justified here beyond a shadow of a doubt.
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