Rolex Datejust Two-Tone Ref.1601
Somewhere between champagne and bronze, this dial has found a colour entirely of its own.
Dating to circa 1971, this Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 brings together the classic two-tone formula: a 36 mm steel Oyster case, yellow-gold fluted bezel and a steel-and-gold Jubilee bracelet. Familiar ingredients, but the warm bronze-toned dial gives this example a noticeably richer character.
Applied gold baton markers and matching hands almost disappear into the dial at certain angles, while the date beneath the Cyclops at three provides the contrast. Under the acrylic crystal, the whole thing has the softer, warmer appearance that makes four-digit Datejusts so appealing.
The Jubilee bracelet fits the mood perfectly giving this piece that unmistakable early-seventies Rolex look. Period two-tone Ref. 1601 examples with champagne-toned dials and Jubilee bracelets are well documented.
It is a simple Datejust on paper, but that is rather the point. Bronze tones, acrylic crystal and plenty of vintage warmth turn one of Rolex’s most familiar watches into something much less generic.
A proper 1971 two-tone Datejust with a dial that gets better the longer you look at it. Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.
Year
1971€ 7.790
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The Rolex Datejust is one of the most iconic watch designs ever made. We try not to use the term “iconic” too liberally, but it is surely justified here. Launched back in 1945 as the Ref. 4467, the design has been only marginally updated every now and then. And it has looked fresh and current ever since.
When it comes to vintage, two generations of Datejust are particularly popular; the Ref. 16xx and the later five-digit references. The 16xx models were made from the fifties until roughly 1978 and feature a beautifully dimensional pie-pan dial. Many of these came on folded jubilee bracelets and they did not yet feature a quickset date.
When the reference was updated to five digits around 1978, the pie-pan dial was replaced by a flat dial. The caliber was updated to now feature a quickset date. A decade later, in 1988, a new update saw the introduction of a sapphire crystal. For us, this is where vintage Datejust becomes modern Datejust.
Countless variations can be found. Different bezels, bracelets, dial colors, sizes and materials. The Datejust is one of the most beloved and versatile watches around. If you are looking for a one-watch-collection, that works equally well with shorts as it does with a three-piece suit, the Datejust is probably a pretty safe bet!
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