Rolex Datejust 26 mm Ref. 69173
By 1993, the lady’s two-tone Datejust had pretty much perfected its formula.
This Ref. 69173 combines a 26 mm steel Oyster case with a yellow gold fluted bezel and the classic two-tone Jubilee bracelet. Add the champagne dial and there is very little doubt about the era: warm, polished and unmistakably Rolex without needing diamonds or anything exotic.
The dial features gold baton markers and matching hands sit against the champagne surface, while the Datejust signature and Cyclops date at three complete one of the most familiar layouts in the Rolex catalogue. Sapphire crystal gives this later generation a crisper, more modern feel than the acrylic models that came before it.
Inside this generation sits Rolex’s automatic calibre 2135, with quickset date and chronometer certification. It is part of what makes the five-digit Lady-Datejust such an easy vintage Rolex to actually live with: classic proportions on the outside, considerably more modern underneath.
The steel and gold Jubilee bracelet really finishes the look. Its versatile look turns this small Rolex into something halfway between everyday watch and jewellery, perfect for a one watch collection.
A proper early-nineties Lady-Datejust: champagne, two-tone and instantly recognisable. No tricks needed. Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.
Year
1993€ 5.950
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The Rolex Datejust is one of the most iconic watch designs ever made. We try not to use the term “iconic” too liberally, but it is surely justified here. Launched back in 1945 as the Ref. 4467, the design has been only marginally updated every now and then. And it has looked fresh and current ever since.
When it comes to vintage, two generations of Datejust are particularly popular; the Ref. 16xx and the later five-digit references. The 16xx models were made from the fifties until roughly 1978 and feature a beautifully dimensional pie-pan dial. Many of these came on folded jubilee bracelets and they did not yet feature a quickset date.
When the reference was updated to five digits around 1978, the pie-pan dial was replaced by a flat dial. The caliber was updated to now feature a quickset date. A decade later, in 1988, a new update saw the introduction of a sapphire crystal. For us, this is where vintage Datejust becomes modern Datejust.
Countless variations can be found. Different bezels, bracelets, dial colors, sizes and materials. The Datejust is one of the most beloved and versatile watches around. If you are looking for a one-watch-collection, that works equally well with shorts as it does with a three-piece suit, the Datejust is probably a pretty safe bet!
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