Rolex Date 26 mm Ref.69173

Look twice: this one says Date, not Datejust.

Dating to circa 1984, this Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 69173 comes from an interesting early chapter of the five-digit ladies’ Rolex. The ingredients may look familiar, such as the 26 mm Oyster case, steel and yellow gold, fluted bezel and Cyclops, but the dial simply reads “Oyster Perpetual Date”, giving this example a slightly different character from the later Lady-Datejusts.

The silver dial keeps everything particularly clean. Applied gold baton markers and matching hands bring some warmth, while the date at three sits under the familiar Cyclops. There is very little decoration beyond what is actually needed, which works nicely against the yellow-gold bezel and crown.

Its two-tone Oyster bracelet is another good detail. Far less often associated with these small Rolex models than the Jubilee, it gives the watch a slightly tougher, more straightforward look. Steel outer links keep things practical, while the gold centre links tie it neatly back to the bezel and dial.

Inside this generation sits Rolex’s automatic calibre 2135, complete with quickset date. It makes the watch an interesting bridge between old and new Rolex: still petite and distinctly vintage in proportion, but already carrying the more practical mechanics of the five-digit era.

A small Rolex with a slightly unusual identity. Two-tone, silver-dialled and unmistakably eighties, but with that little “Date” signature and Oyster bracelet making it less predictable than the standard Lady-Datejust. Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.