Patek Philippe Ellipse Ref. 3585 + SP

Dating to circa 1971, this Ref. 3585 steps away from the traditional round Calatrava with a broad 36 mm cushion-shaped case in 18k yellow gold. The matching gold dial continues the theme, but applied Roman numerals and slim dark hands keep the whole thing elegant rather than too much.

The shape is what makes it. Softly rounded corners, long sculpted lugs and an uninterrupted case flank give the watch a remarkably clean silhouette. There is no crown where you expect one, because Patek moved the winding and setting crown to the caseback. That small technical decision leaves the case looking almost like a single piece of gold.

Inside sits Patek Philippe’s automatic calibre 350, a rather unusual 28-jewel movement fitted with a bi-directional peripheral rotor. Instead of placing a conventional rotor over the movement, the winding mass travels around its outer edge, helping Patek keep the architecture slim and making the rear-mounted crown possible. The calibre was used from roughly 1969 to 1985 and remains one of the more distinctive automatic constructions in Patek’s vintage catalogue.

Ref. 3585 was launched around 1970 and appeared in several metals and dial configurations, including gilt, silvered, bronze and blue. This gold-on-gold version feels especially seventies: warm, architectural and just a little unconventional, without losing the restraint you expect from Patek Philippe.

A 36 mm back-winding Patek with calibre 350, a cushion case and enough seventies design to make a Calatrava look positively conservative.

Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.