Patek Philippe Ellipse Ref. 4172 + SP

Not quite round, not quite square. Exactly the point.

This Patek Philippe Ellipse Ref. 4172 comes from the 1970s, a period when Patek allowed itself to play a little more with shape. The result is still elegant, still restrained, but far less predictable than a traditional dress watch.

The 18k yellow gold case has a soft cushion-like profile, with rounded edges and a warm champagne dial sitting neatly inside. It is small at 24 mm, but the shape gives it real presence. More design object than plain timekeeper, and very much in that quietly glamorous seventies Patek mood.

The dial keeps the formula clean: slim applied hour markers, simple hands and the Patek Philippe Genève signature. No date, no seconds hand, no unnecessary complication. The pleasure is in the case design, proportion, the gold tone and the way the whole watch feels carefully drawn rather than simply assembled.

On the wrist, the black leather strap gives the watch a sharper look and lets the yellow gold case do the work. The original gold buckle is a lovely detail to still have with a piece like this, keeping the whole package nicely complete.

The Golden Ellipse was Patek Philippe’s answer to harmony through shape, inspired by the golden ratio and introduced in 1968 as something quite different from the brand’s round Calatrava language. This Ref. 4172 carries that idea in a compact, charming form: refined, unusual and just a little more going on than you might expect from Patek this age.

A small yellow gold Ellipse with a champagne dial, original gold buckle and plenty of seventies design character. Elegant, balanced and quietly fun. Available at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.