Audemars Piguet ref. 5369
Audemars Piguet was founded by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet in 1875, and remains the oldest watch brand to have been continuously managed by its founding families.
This watch, often referred to as the Tonneau, is a slim and elegant dress watch standing in stark contrast to the rather bulky Royal Oak line for which Audemars Piguet is best known among today’s collectors. Produced during a period when AP created only a limited number of watches each year, many pieces from this era were either unique or part of extremely small series, underscoring this model’s rarity.
Its design may appear reminiscent of the well-known Omega C-case, and that is with good reason; this watch, too, was designed by the legendary Gérald Genta. The construction of the case is quite remarkable, as it was engineered to achieve water resistance without the use of a screw-down caseback, all while maintaining its slim profile. This innovative approach was later used by Genta in the designs of his iconic creations, the Nautilus and the Royal Oak.
Dating to the early 1970s, this watch features a 33 mm stainless steel case with a mineral crystal, an unsigned crown, and a satin silver dial with applied indices and matching pencil hands.
Elegant and understated, this timepiece offers a glimpse into the mindset of a pre–Royal Oak Audemars Piguet. An era defined by extraordinary, ultra-thin dress watches. Whether paired with a formal outfit or a simple white tee, its beauty and class will stand out.
Year
1972€ 5.500
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Audemars Piguet was founded by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in 1875. The name Audemars Piguet & Cie was registered in 1881. AP is regarded as one of the holy trinity watchmakers, together with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.
Audemars Piguet has a rather impressive list of innovations to its name. From the world’s first minute-repeater wristwatch movement (1892), to the first jump-hour wristwatch (1921) and the first skeletonized watch (1934).
AP is particularly skilled at making thin movements. In 1946, they set the record for the worlds thinnest watch caliber at 1,64mm’s. They would later repeat their thinness-record-breaking habit with a tourbillon movement and later with the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar.
Audemars Piguet is well known for its formal watches. From the Calatrava style watches of the early 20th century, to the elaborate haute-horology marvels of today. Their single most successful watch is something else entirely though: the Royal Oak.
The Royal Oak singlehandedly saved Audemars Piguet and much of the high-end Swiss watchmaking industry in 1972, by providing an answer to cheap quartz watches: the luxury steel sports watch. A design by Gerald Genta that would set a template for everyone. Since then, every watchbrand strives for a hit sports watch in steel. It is the horological equivalent to the Christmas hitsong.
AP has been particularly successful with the Royal Oak’s many variations since. From precious metal and complicated variants, to the more brutalist Royal Oak Offshore line. But even if you look beyond the sports models, there are many highly refined gems in both the current lineup as well as throughout the house’s illustrious history.
If a Rolex is like a Porsche, then an Audemars is like a Rolls Royce. It is every bit of luxury dialed up to eleven in an elegant, old-world kind of way. It is equal parts tradition and craftsmanship. If that speaks to you, look no further!
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