IWC Calatrava Ref.1338787
Here we present this IWC Calatrava Ref. 1338787 is a wonderfully elegant dress watch from 1955, the kind of piece that reminds you how good a simple round watch can be. Measuring 34 mm and made in 18k yellow gold, it has that classic mid-century balance: slim, warm and quietly confident.
Here at AWCO we think the charm is in the simplicity. The silver dial keeps things beautifully calm, with applied gold baton markers, slim dauphine-style hands and no date to disturb the symmetry. There is just enough detail to make it feel refined, but nothing trying too hard. Very IWC, in the best possible way.
The 18k yellow gold case has a polished, elegant profile with straight lugs and a lovely softness from the acrylic crystal. From the side, the watch has that gentle vintage curve we always like to see in a proper dress piece. The burgundy leather strap adds a little colour and warmth, making the watch feel a touch more playful than a black strap would.
Inside is IWC’s automatic calibre 852, an early Pellaton-winding movement from the 1950s and exactly the sort of technical detail that makes a quiet gold dress watch like this extra interesting. It gives the watch a little bit of Schaffhausen seriousness beneath all that elegant simplicity.
The Calatrava-style case shape sits beautifully within IWC’s dress-watch tradition. It is not loud, not oversized and not trying to be anything more than a very well-proportioned gold watch. And honestly, that is exactly why it works.
A warm 18k yellow gold IWC with a clean silver dial, lovely mid-century proportions and just the right amount of Schaffhausen quietness. Elegant, easy and very charming on the wrist. Come see it for yourself at Reestraat 3, Amsterdam.
Year
1955€ 3.890
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International Watch Company, better known as IWC Schaffhausen, was founded by American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868. The company specialized in Aviation watches and is currently operating under the Richemont Group umbrella.
IWC introduced its first pilot’s watch in 1936. An inner rotating pointer could be used to keep track of take-off times and the escapement was anti-magnetic, to cope with the magnetic fields from the cockpit instruments.
In 1939, two Portuguese distributors ordered a large wristwatch with pocket watch movement and another iconic IWC line was born: the Portugieser. Today, particularly the dressy Portugieser chronographs are popular among IWC aficionados.
When Europe plummets into WWII, IWC is commissioned by both sides of the conflict to supply military watches. The two best-known examples are the Dirty Dozen field watches for the allies and the big pilot, known as Beobachtungsuhr or B-uhr, for the German Luftwaffe. The latter would form the design template for the later Big Pilot range.
Towards the end of WWII, IWC developed a new military movement, known as Cal. 89. When the war ends, the tough caliber is fitted to civilian watches. The Cal. 89 watches, many in classic Calatrava style, remain popular among collectors until today. In 1948, the Cal. 89 is fitted to the Pilot Mk XI, another popular vintage reference.
1955 Saw the introduction of another influential IWC model: the Ingenieur. IWC used its expertise in magnetic resistance to manufacture a watch for engineers and scientists, working with magnetic fields. This is two years after Rolex introduced the Milgauss for the same clientele.
In 1967, IWC branches out into water sports. The Aquatimer is introduced as a serious divewatch. The more casual Yacht Club is launched alongside for all-purpose daily wearing.
IWC remained innovative, being among the early adopters of the brand new quartz technology, for instance. But the house also recognized the value of heritage, building on its historic Pilot and Portugieser ranges. The result is a broad scope of all sorts of watches, for all sorts of people. Through it all, IWC maintained a reputation as high quality watchmakers.
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